Houseplant · Araceae
Swiss Cheese Vine
Monstera adansonii
Give it bright indirect light and something to climb, and the Swiss cheese vine takes off, punching holes through leaf after leaf.
Bright indirect
60–85°F · 16–29°C
USDA 10–12
3–8 ft · 0.9–2.4 m
Overview
The Swiss cheese vine grabs its name from the rows of holes that open across its leaves as it grows up. This climbing aroid hails from the tropical forests of Central and South America, where it powers up tree trunks toward the light. That climbing habit travels indoors with it, so it truly shines trained up a moss pole or spilling off a high shelf.
It runs in the arum family with philodendrons and pothos, and it demands little to thrive. Bright indirect light, a chunky mix that drains well, and a drink only when the soil surface dries cover nearly the whole job. The holes, called fenestrations, are the payoff every grower chases, and they widen as each leaf grows up.
Plenty of people mistake it for the bigger Monstera deliciosa, but this is a smaller, quicker vine with a finer texture. Feed it warmth, humidity, and room to climb and it races upward. Just log this one detail: every part of it is toxic if a pet or child chews on it, so keep it up and out of reach.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light, a well-draining mix, and water only once the top inch or two has dried. Keep it warm and humid, hand it something to climb, and watch it grow fast.
Light
Chase the fullest leaves and the most holes by giving it bright indirect light. It scrapes by in medium light or partial shade, but growth slows and the leaves stay smaller and more solid. Keep it clear of harsh direct sun, which scorches the foliage.
Water
Water once the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil has dried, then soak it and let it drain. Soggy soil rots the roots faster than anything, so lean dry every time. The vine flags its thirst long before the soil ever sits wet too long.
Soil
Plant it in a well-draining, organic-rich potting mix loosened with bark or perlite so water races straight through. It shrugs off pH and takes anything from 6.0 to 8.0. Drainage is the real prize here, not the exact recipe.
Temperature
Keep it running between 60°F to 85°F (15.6°C to 29.4°C), which matches most warm homes. It has zero frost tolerance and sulks in a cold draft, so keep it away from chilly windows and air conditioning vents in winter.
Humidity
This tropical vine wants air above 50% humidity. It survives in average room air, but pile on the moisture and it pushes out bigger, healthier leaves. A pebble tray, a humidifier, or a bright bathroom all crank it up.
Feeding
Through spring and summer, feed it every two weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer at the usual strength. Back off in fall and winter as growth slows. That steady feeding through the warm months is the fuel behind its fast growth.
Pruning
Cut leggy vines back to keep the plant full and clip off any damaged leaves at the base. Prune in the growing season and you bank cuttings to root. Pinching the tips drives bushier growth instead of one long bare stem.
Repotting
Repot every 1 to 2 years in spring, stepping up one pot size when roots punch through the drainage holes, circle the pot, or growth stalls. Fresh mix and a bit more room keep this fast grower charging. Sink a stake or pole at the same time to give it something to climb.
Size & spacing
Trained up a support indoors it climbs to about 3 to 8 feet (91 to 244 cm) tall, spreading roughly 1 to 3 feet (30 to 91 cm). Give it room to climb or trail and the vines fill the space in a hurry.
Troubleshooting
Nearly everything that trips up this vine traces back to watering and the air around it. Catch the early signs on the leaves and roots and you turn things around before they spread. Match what you see below, then jump in while it still helps.
Mushy roots and a wilting plant
Root rot hits when roots sit wet and suffocate, going brown and soft the moment you tip the plant out. Move quick: unpot it, cut away every rotten root, and drop it into fresh draining mix. Keep the watering light from here on and the vine rebuilds a healthy root system.
Fix:
- Unpot plant
- Cut away rotten roots
- Repot in fresh draining mix
Leaves turning yellow
A yellow leaf points almost every time to overwatering and a pot clinging to too much water. Press the soil and feel the base of the stem: soggy soil and a soft stem confirm it fast. Dial back the water, get that pot draining freely, and let the soil dry before the next round, and the vine bounces right back.
Fix:
- Reduce watering
- Ensure pot drains freely
- Let soil dry before next watering
Dark spots on the leaves
Brown or dark leaf spots crop up wherever water lingers on the foliage and the air sits still. Snip the marked leaves, aim your water at the soil to keep the foliage dry, and open up the space so air keeps moving. Dry leaves plus good airflow shut new spots down for good.
Fix:
- Remove affected leaves
- Avoid wetting foliage
- Improve air circulation
Fine webbing and speckled leaves
Spider mites move in the second the air goes dry, dropping faint webbing and a stippled, dusty film across the leaves. Blast the foliage with a rinse, wipe the leaves clean, and bring in insecticidal soap if they cling on. Scout the undersides often and keep the humidity climbing, and they never get a foothold.
Fix:
- Rinse foliage
- Wipe leaves
- Apply insecticidal soap
Brown bumps stuck to the stems
Scale insects ride in as little brown bumps locked onto the stems and leaves, and a quick brush never shifts them. Hit each with alcohol, scrape the rest off by hand, and seal the deal with horticultural oil. Scout every new plant and keep it isolated for a bit, and they never spread through the collection.
Fix:
- Wipe with alcohol
- Remove scale by hand
- Apply horticultural oil
New leaves come in solid with no holes
Solid leaves signal a young plant or too little light, not a thing to fix. The famous holes roll in as the vine grows up and starts to climb, and they are worth the wait. Give it a bright spot out of direct sun, hand it a support to climb, and watch it grow into those split leaves.
Fix:
- Provide bright indirect light
- Allow plant to mature
- Add climbing support
Toxicity
Growing this vine is a joy, but it is a toxic plant from leaf to stem. Every part carries insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that burn the mouth and throat the instant they are chewed, sparking drooling, pain, and swelling. Keep it out of reach of pets and children, and pull on gloves when you prune, since the sap can irritate skin.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
A cat that bites a leaf takes in a mouthful of sharp calcium oxalate crystals. Watch closely for drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, and trouble swallowing.
Dogs Moderate
A dog that chews the foliage runs into fierce oral burning, heavy drooling, and a churned-up stomach. That sting usually pulls it off the plant before much goes down.
Horses Toxic
The same crystals fire up a horse's mouth and gut, driving drooling, mouth pain, and colicky discomfort. Keep the plant well out of reach.
Rabbits Toxic
This is not safe browse for a rabbit, full stop. One nibble sparks mouth irritation, drooling, and digestive upset, so stash the vine where a rabbit cannot reach it.
Livestock Toxic
Grazers like goats and sheep can take painful mouth and gut irritation from the oxalate crystals. Give them zero access to it.
Birds Toxic
A pet bird that shreds a leaf catches the same burning irritation in the beak and throat. Keep cages and perches clear of the foliage.
People Caution
No part of this plant is food. Chew it and the mouth burns while the lips and throat swell, and the sap can leave skin itchy or raw, so pull on gloves before you prune.
Wear gloves; sap can cause contact dermatitis
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
Only a couple of named forms of this vine show up in cultivation, and these two are the ones to hunt for.
subsp. laniata
An accepted subspecies that scoops up the old name Monstera friedrichsthalii, now treated as a synonym of it.
'Mint' (variegated)
A standout variegated cultivar recognized by the RHS, its leaves marbled with pale mint green.
How to propagate
Here is the best part: this is one of the easiest houseplants to multiply, and a single healthy stem grows you a whole new plant.
Stem cuttingsEasy
Spring to summer · Several weeks to root
Stem cuttings turn one vine into many, fast. Grab them in spring or summer, cutting just below a node that already sports an aerial root, then stand the cutting in water or moist mix. A few weeks on, roots take hold and a brand new plant is off and growing.
Air layeringModerate
Growing season · Few weeks to form roots
Air layering roots a stem while it hangs on to the parent, which stacks the odds in your favor on a tricky vine. Wrap a node in damp moss through the growing season and wait the few weeks it takes for roots to form. Then cut the new plant free and pot it up.
Myths
The holes appear because the plant is underfed.
Feeding plays zero role in the holes. The holes, called fenestrations, open as each leaf matures, so a young or shaded plant just has not hit that stage yet.
Adansonii is just a baby Monstera deliciosa.
The mix-up runs rampant, but these two are not the same plant. Monstera adansonii Schott is its own accepted species, not a juvenile that shoots up into deliciosa.