Houseplant · Araceae
Glorious Philodendron
Philodendron gloriosum
Give it warmth, humidity, and bright indirect light, and this velvet-leaf crawler keeps rolling out one heart-shaped leaf after another.
Bright indirect
65–85°F · 18–29°C
USDA 10–12
Overview
Philodendron gloriosum lives up to its name, throwing out broad heart-shaped leaves of deep green velvet threaded with pale silvery veins. Forget the moss pole, because this one is a crawler, driving its thick stem sideways across the soil surface instead of scaling anything. It hails from the rainforests of Colombia, and indoors it chases the same things it grew up with: warmth, steady moisture, and humid air.
Its collector reputation makes it sound tricky, but read it right and it grows like a champ. Nail drainage above all, since the fleshy roots rot fast the moment the mix turns soggy. Sort the soil and watering and the plant takes off, pushing up a brand-new leaf every few weeks straight through the growing season.
Every part of this plant carries calcium oxalate crystals, so it irritates people and pets alike. Grow it and gawk at it, but never nibble it. Keep it somewhere curious cats, dogs, and small children cannot get at the leaves and enjoy the ride.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light, a loose free-draining mix, and water only when the top of the soil dries. Keep it warm and humid, feed it lightly through the growing season, and never let it sit in water.
Light
Park it in bright indirect light, right near a window but out of the sun's direct path. It gets by in medium light or dappled shade, just at a slower clip. Keep it clear of direct summer sun, which bleaches and scorches the velvety leaves.
Water
Wait until the top of the soil has dried, then soak it thoroughly and let the extra drain away. The fleshy roots rot quickly in a mix that stays wet, so lean dry and never leave the pot standing in a saucer of water.
Soil
Load it into a loose, free-draining aroid mix built from peat or coir with bark and perlite or sand. It leans acidic, around a pH of 5.0 to 6.0, and craves plenty of air around the roots.
Temperature
Hold it in the toasty 65°F to 85°F (18°C to 29°C) it thrives in. It has zero tolerance for cold, so keep it away from drafty doors and cold windowpanes come winter.
Humidity
This high-humidity rainforest-floor plant powers out its best growth in damp air. It copes with normal room humidity, but cluster it with other plants or set it on a pebble tray to give it a real lift.
Feeding
Feed monthly through the growing season, spring into early autumn, with a balanced houseplant fertilizer at a dilute rate. Back off in winter as growth slows, and flush the soil now and then to clear salt build-up.
Pruning
There is barely anything to do beyond tidying. Pull off dead, damaged, or yellowing leaves as they show, and if a stem runs leggy, cut just after a leaf node in spring. Wear gloves, since the sap can irritate skin.
Repotting
Bump it up every 2 to 3 years, or sooner once the roots jam the pot, and do it in spring. Since this plant crawls sideways, a wide, shallow container beats a deep one hands down.
Troubleshooting
Nearly every hiccup here circles back to water and light. Yellowing leaves, mushy roots, or scorched patches all wave a flag that something is off. Match what you spot below and jump on it before it spreads.
A wilting plant with soft stems and sour-smelling soil
A droopy plant and sour soil spell root rot, which sets in when the mix stays wet far too long. Slide the plant out and put your fingers to work on the roots, keeping every firm pale one and clearing out the brown, mushy ones. Trim the dead roots, repot into a fresh free-draining mix, and dial the watering back, and it bounces into recovery.
Fix:
- Remove from the soggy medium and cut away rotten roots
- Repot into fresh free-draining mix
- Reduce watering frequency and empty saucers
The oldest leaves near the base going yellow
Yellowing on the oldest, lowest leaves usually shouts too much water or too little light. Dig in and check whether the mix stays wet and whether the plant is parked in a gloomy corner. Let the soil dry between waterings, slide it into bright indirect light, and watch it perk right back up.
Fix:
- Allow the medium to dry appropriately between waterings
- Move to a brighter spot with bright indirect light
Bleached, scorched patches on the most exposed leaves
Pale, burnt patches mean the leaves are grabbing too much direct sun, usually blasting through a hot summer window. The damage lands on whichever leaves face the glare head-on. Pull the plant back into bright indirect light and the fresh growth charges in clean.
Fix:
- Move out of direct sun into bright indirect light
Sticky residue, fine webbing, or tiny bugs on the foliage
Sticky honeydew, fine webs, or specks on the march signal sap-sucking pests like mealybugs, spider mites, scale, or aphids. Flip the leaves and scout the joints where leaf meets stem, since that is their hideout. Wipe or wash them off, hit them with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, and keep after them until they are gone for good.
Fix:
- Wipe off or wash off pests
- Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil and repeat as needed
Crispy brown tips and edges on the leaves
Browning that marches in from the tips and edges usually flags fertilizer salt build-up after feeding a bit too hard. Hunt for a white crust on the soil or pot rim to lock it down. Pause the feeding, flush the mix hard with plenty of plain water, and when you feed again, keep it good and weak.
Fix:
- Stop fertilizing and flush the medium thoroughly with water
- Resume feeding only at dilute rates during the growing season
Toxicity
This is a plant to admire, not to bite. Every part carries insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that torch the mouth and throat when chewed, and the sap can irritate bare skin. It is toxic to cats, dogs, and horses, and unsafe for people too, so keep it out of reach of pets and small children and glove up before you prune.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
Chew any part and a cat gets a burning mouth, heavy drooling, and a swollen tongue and lips fast. Watch it paw at its face, walk away from food, and sometimes vomit or wrestle with swallowing.
Dogs Moderate
A dog that bites a leaf feels the sting instantly, then paws at its mouth, drools, and puffs up around the lips and tongue. Vomiting and trouble swallowing can pile on next, so ring the vet.
Horses Moderate
The same crystals fire up a horse's mouth and throat, leaving it drooling with painful swelling and difficulty swallowing. Horses cannot vomit, so the trouble stays put in the mouth and gut.
Rabbits Caution
The oxalate crystals hit a rabbit's mouth and gut just like they do other animals, so keep the plant well up and away. If a rabbit chews a leaf, treat it as a reason to call your vet right away.
Livestock Caution
Grazing animals that mouth the foliage run into the same burning irritation and drooling. It is an unlikely snack indoors, but fence it off the moment the plant heads outside.
Birds Caution
A curious bird that nibbles a leaf risks the same sore mouth and swelling. Keep pet birds well clear of the foliage, full stop.
People Caution
Nothing on this plant is food. Chew a leaf and it burns the mouth and lips, and the sap can leave skin red and itchy, so pull on gloves when you prune and keep it away from small children.
Plant sap can cause skin irritation / contact dermatitis; wear gloves when cutting stems and wash hands afterward (genus-level)
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
How to propagate
This philodendron multiplies with ease, whether you split the creeping stem, root a cutting in water, or layer a stem before you cut it free.
DivisionModerate
Spring to summer, during active growth · Roots in a few weeks
This plant creeps along a thick surface stem, which makes division a genuinely fun way to multiply it. In spring or summer, while it is charging ahead in active growth, slice the rhizome into pieces so each keeps at least one node. Pot the sections up and they fire out roots within a few weeks.
Stem cuttingsEasy
Spring to late summer · Roots in about 2 weeks in water
Stem cuttings are the quick win here. Any time from spring to late summer, snip a piece about 4 inches (10 cm) long just below a leaf node. Drop it into a glass of water and it roots in about two weeks.
Air layeringModerate
Any season · Several weeks
Air layering is a satisfying trick, since it roots a stem before you ever cut it loose. In any season, wound a node, wrap it in damp moss, and keep that moss moist while roots push out over several weeks. Then sever the rooted section and pot it on.
Myths
Philodendrons are harmless houseplants that are safe around pets.
Not so fast: the ASPCA lists philodendron as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses, and every part packs insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Chewing a leaf brings a burning, swollen mouth and drooling, so keep this plant out of reach of pets and children.
Philodendrons need bright, direct sunlight to thrive.
They actually flourish in bright indirect light, not full sun. Direct rays, especially through a summer window, scorch the velvety leaves and leave pale burnt patches, so keep the plant just off the glass.